The world of sport climbing is said to be a battle of intelligence, physical strength, and decision-making. Before discussing soles, we asked about its appeal.
Sport climbing is a competition that requires not only explosive power and muscle strength but also precision in "speed," and the ability to think about the order, structure, and use of the body for each problem in "bouldering" and "lead." It truly is a sport that fights with intelligence, physical strength, and decision-making.
What is climbing? And what are the highlights that anyone can enjoy watching?
— I don't intend to ask difficult questions, but I would like to hear some specialized insights on the importance of shoes in sport climbing. The ones in your hand are really worn out compared to new ones...
akiyo noguchi: I brought the well-used ones (laughs). Sport climbing refers to climbing competitions held on artificial walls. Currently, there are three official disciplines: Speed, Bouldering, and Lead. I practiced all three for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, but before that, I focused on Bouldering and Lead. For the Paris 2024 Olympics, the format has changed. Instead of one athlete competing in all three disciplines, it has been divided into two categories: Speed as a single discipline and a combined event of Lead and Bouldering, with medals contested in these categories.
ー What should we focus on when watching sport climbing?
noguchi: Speed climbing is all about how quickly climbers can complete a 15m route, with standardized holds and wall shapes, similar to track and field events. It requires explosive power and muscle strength. Bouldering and Lead climbing involve solving new routes with unknown hold placements during the competition. Bouldering has climbers tackle 4–5m walls without ropes, while Lead climbing involves climbing 15–18m walls with ropes and a belayer for safety.
ー How do Bouldering and Lead differ from Speed climbing in terms of preparation and competition?
noguchi: Bouldering and Lead require extensive practice to prepare for any possible route. Climbers train on various wall angles and hold configurations to be ready for competition. On competition day, climbers face new routes, and their ability to adapt and solve these problems is crucial. Unlike Speed climbing, which is about achieving the best time, Bouldering and Lead focus on overcoming the challenges presented by the routes.
ー Are there days when the routes feel easier or harder?
noguchi: Yes, there are days when the routes feel more manageable due to good form or favorable route characteristics. Conversely, even top climbers can find certain routes challenging depending on their compatibility with the route's style.
ー How does the competition format affect the outcome?
noguchi: In Speed climbing, the competition is more direct, with climbers racing against each other in a tournament format. In Bouldering and Lead, the focus is on solving the problems presented by the routes rather than competing directly against other climbers. The competition is as much against the route and oneself as it is against other climbers.
First, we asked her about the sport of climbing, its excitement, highlights, and its appeal. Once you hear about it, your perspective on sport climbing may change.
akiyo noguchi
Professional Free Climber
akiyo noguchi discovered free climbing during a family trip to Guam in the fifth grade. Just one year after starting climbing, she won the All Japan Youth Championship. She has since achieved remarkable results in numerous domestic and international competitions. In 2008, she became the first Japanese climber to win the Bouldering World Cup, and in 2009, she won the overall title. She repeated this feat in 2010, 2014, and 2015, with a total of 21 World Cup victories. In 2018, she won gold at the Combined Japan Cup and the Asian Games. She placed second at the 2019 World Championships. At the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, which was the culmination of her career, she won a bronze medal.
In May 2022, she established Akiyo's Company as the foundation for her activities. Moving forward, she aims to promote climbing based on her experiences and actively engage in outdoor climbing activities, surpassing challenges like "Mind Control" (8c+) and "The Mandara" (V12).
Sport climbing is a competition that requires not only explosive power and muscle strength but also precision in "speed," and the ability to think about the order, structure, and use of the body for each problem in "bouldering" and "lead." It truly is a sport that fights with intelligence, physical strength, and decision-making.
What is climbing? And what are the highlights that anyone can enjoy watching?
— I don't intend to ask difficult questions, but I would like to hear some specialized insights on the importance of shoes in sport climbing. The ones in your hand are really worn out compared to new ones...
akiyo noguchi: I brought the well-used ones (laughs). Sport climbing refers to climbing competitions held on artificial walls. Currently, there are three official disciplines: Speed, Bouldering, and Lead. I practiced all three for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, but before that, I focused on Bouldering and Lead. For the Paris 2024 Olympics, the format has changed. Instead of one athlete competing in all three disciplines, it has been divided into two categories: Speed as a single discipline and a combined event of Lead and Bouldering, with medals contested in these categories.
ー What should we focus on when watching sport climbing?
noguchi: Speed climbing is all about how quickly climbers can complete a 15m route, with standardized holds and wall shapes, similar to track and field events. It requires explosive power and muscle strength. Bouldering and Lead climbing involve solving new routes with unknown hold placements during the competition. Bouldering has climbers tackle 4–5m walls without ropes, while Lead climbing involves climbing 15–18m walls with ropes and a belayer for safety.
ー How do Bouldering and Lead differ from Speed climbing in terms of preparation and competition?
noguchi: Bouldering and Lead require extensive practice to prepare for any possible route. Climbers train on various wall angles and hold configurations to be ready for competition. On competition day, climbers face new routes, and their ability to adapt and solve these problems is crucial. Unlike Speed climbing, which is about achieving the best time, Bouldering and Lead focus on overcoming the challenges presented by the routes.
ー Are there days when the routes feel easier or harder?
noguchi: Yes, there are days when the routes feel more manageable due to good form or favorable route characteristics. Conversely, even top climbers can find certain routes challenging depending on their compatibility with the route's style.
ー How does the competition format affect the outcome?
noguchi: In Speed climbing, the competition is more direct, with climbers racing against each other in a tournament format. In Bouldering and Lead, the focus is on solving the problems presented by the routes rather than competing directly against other climbers. The competition is as much against the route and oneself as it is against other climbers.
First, we asked her about the sport of climbing, its excitement, highlights, and its appeal. Once you hear about it, your perspective on sport climbing may change.
akiyo noguchi
Professional Free Climber
akiyo noguchi discovered free climbing during a family trip to Guam in the fifth grade. Just one year after starting climbing, she won the All Japan Youth Championship. She has since achieved remarkable results in numerous domestic and international competitions. In 2008, she became the first Japanese climber to win the Bouldering World Cup, and in 2009, she won the overall title. She repeated this feat in 2010, 2014, and 2015, with a total of 21 World Cup victories. In 2018, she won gold at the Combined Japan Cup and the Asian Games. She placed second at the 2019 World Championships. At the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, which was the culmination of her career, she won a bronze medal.
In May 2022, she established Akiyo's Company as the foundation for her activities. Moving forward, she aims to promote climbing based on her experiences and actively engage in outdoor climbing activities, surpassing challenges like "Mind Control" (8c+) and "The Mandara" (V12).
In sport climbing, shoes play the most crucial role. We asked about the feel of the uppers and Vibram soles.
For sport climbers, the essential gear for competitions is "chalk" and "shoes." Among these, the role of shoes is particularly important. Since climbers don't know what challenges will arise in competitions, most athletes end up wearing the same all-round shoes.
ー How important are shoes and soles in sport climbing?
noguchi: Shoes are the most important gear for sport climbers, along with chalk. The performance of climbers largely depends on these two items. While other gear like harnesses, ropes, and clothing can be chosen, they don't significantly impact climbing performance.
ー Can climbers customize their chalk?
noguchi: Yes, some climbers use custom blends of chalk to suit their preferences and the holds they encounter in competitions. Many top climbers end up using similar chalk blends that work well with common competition holds.
ー Do climbers use the same shoes?
noguchi: Yes, most top climbers use similar all-round shoes that fit the current trends in climbing challenges. While there are differences in foot shape and preferences, the shoes tend to be the same due to their suitability for various climbing styles.
ー How has the evolution of climbing shoes impacted climbers?
noguchi: In the past, climbers would customize their shoes, but now the performance of climbing shoes is so high that most climbers use them as they are. Brands like La Sportiva offer highly refined shoes that don't require modifications.
ー What was your first impression of climbing shoes?
noguchi: My first climbing shoes were from a different brand, and finding the right size was challenging. Over time, climbing shoes have evolved, and now there are more options, including kids' sizes. When I first tried La Sportiva shoes, I was impressed by their fit and performance, which made other shoes feel awkward.
ー How do climbing shoes differ from regular shoes?
noguchi: Climbing shoes are much smaller and fit tightly, unlike regular shoes. They are designed to grip small holds and provide stability. I use the same pair of shoes for both Bouldering and Lead climbing, relying on their versatility.
ー Do you consider the role of rubber in climbing shoes?
noguchi: I use the original soles provided by La Sportiva, which are typically Vibram soles. I've never felt the need to change them because they offer excellent grip and performance. Vibram soles are reliable, and I trust their quality.
For sport climbers, the essential gear for competitions is "chalk" and "shoes." Among these, the role of shoes is particularly important. Since climbers don't know what challenges will arise in competitions, most athletes end up wearing the same all-round shoes.
ー How important are shoes and soles in sport climbing?
noguchi: Shoes are the most important gear for sport climbers, along with chalk. The performance of climbers largely depends on these two items. While other gear like harnesses, ropes, and clothing can be chosen, they don't significantly impact climbing performance.
ー Can climbers customize their chalk?
noguchi: Yes, some climbers use custom blends of chalk to suit their preferences and the holds they encounter in competitions. Many top climbers end up using similar chalk blends that work well with common competition holds.
ー Do climbers use the same shoes?
noguchi: Yes, most top climbers use similar all-round shoes that fit the current trends in climbing challenges. While there are differences in foot shape and preferences, the shoes tend to be the same due to their suitability for various climbing styles.
ー How has the evolution of climbing shoes impacted climbers?
noguchi: In the past, climbers would customize their shoes, but now the performance of climbing shoes is so high that most climbers use them as they are. Brands like La Sportiva offer highly refined shoes that don't require modifications.
ー What was your first impression of climbing shoes?
noguchi: My first climbing shoes were from a different brand, and finding the right size was challenging. Over time, climbing shoes have evolved, and now there are more options, including kids' sizes. When I first tried La Sportiva shoes, I was impressed by their fit and performance, which made other shoes feel awkward.
ー How do climbing shoes differ from regular shoes?
noguchi: Climbing shoes are much smaller and fit tightly, unlike regular shoes. They are designed to grip small holds and provide stability. I use the same pair of shoes for both Bouldering and Lead climbing, relying on their versatility.
ー Do you consider the role of rubber in climbing shoes?
noguchi: I use the original soles provided by La Sportiva, which are typically Vibram soles. I've never felt the need to change them because they offer excellent grip and performance. Vibram soles are reliable, and I trust their quality.
In sport climbing, shoes play the most crucial role. We asked about the feel of the uppers and Vibram soles.
For sport climbers, the essential gear for competitions is "chalk" and "shoes." Among these, the role of shoes is particularly important. Since climbers don't know what challenges will arise in competitions, most athletes end up wearing the same all-round shoes.
ー How important are shoes and soles in sport climbing?
noguchi: Shoes are the most important gear for sport climbers, along with chalk. The performance of climbers largely depends on these two items. While other gear like harnesses, ropes, and clothing can be chosen, they don't significantly impact climbing performance.
ー Can climbers customize their chalk?
noguchi: Yes, some climbers use custom blends of chalk to suit their preferences and the holds they encounter in competitions. Many top climbers end up using similar chalk blends that work well with common competition holds.
ー Do climbers use the same shoes?
noguchi: Yes, most top climbers use similar all-round shoes that fit the current trends in climbing challenges. While there are differences in foot shape and preferences, the shoes tend to be the same due to their suitability for various climbing styles.
ー How has the evolution of climbing shoes impacted climbers?
noguchi: In the past, climbers would customize their shoes, but now the performance of climbing shoes is so high that most climbers use them as they are. Brands like La Sportiva offer highly refined shoes that don't require modifications.
ー What was your first impression of climbing shoes?
noguchi: My first climbing shoes were from a different brand, and finding the right size was challenging. Over time, climbing shoes have evolved, and now there are more options, including kids' sizes. When I first tried La Sportiva shoes, I was impressed by their fit and performance, which made other shoes feel awkward.
ー How do climbing shoes differ from regular shoes?
noguchi: Climbing shoes are much smaller and fit tightly, unlike regular shoes. They are designed to grip small holds and provide stability. I use the same pair of shoes for both Bouldering and Lead climbing, relying on their versatility.
ー Do you consider the role of rubber in climbing shoes?
noguchi: I use the original soles provided by La Sportiva, which are typically Vibram soles. I've never felt the need to change them because they offer excellent grip and performance. Vibram soles are reliable, and I trust their quality.
For sport climbers, the essential gear for competitions is "chalk" and "shoes." Among these, the role of shoes is particularly important. Since climbers don't know what challenges will arise in competitions, most athletes end up wearing the same all-round shoes.
ー How important are shoes and soles in sport climbing?
noguchi: Shoes are the most important gear for sport climbers, along with chalk. The performance of climbers largely depends on these two items. While other gear like harnesses, ropes, and clothing can be chosen, they don't significantly impact climbing performance.
ー Can climbers customize their chalk?
noguchi: Yes, some climbers use custom blends of chalk to suit their preferences and the holds they encounter in competitions. Many top climbers end up using similar chalk blends that work well with common competition holds.
ー Do climbers use the same shoes?
noguchi: Yes, most top climbers use similar all-round shoes that fit the current trends in climbing challenges. While there are differences in foot shape and preferences, the shoes tend to be the same due to their suitability for various climbing styles.
ー How has the evolution of climbing shoes impacted climbers?
noguchi: In the past, climbers would customize their shoes, but now the performance of climbing shoes is so high that most climbers use them as they are. Brands like La Sportiva offer highly refined shoes that don't require modifications.
ー What was your first impression of climbing shoes?
noguchi: My first climbing shoes were from a different brand, and finding the right size was challenging. Over time, climbing shoes have evolved, and now there are more options, including kids' sizes. When I first tried La Sportiva shoes, I was impressed by their fit and performance, which made other shoes feel awkward.
ー How do climbing shoes differ from regular shoes?
noguchi: Climbing shoes are much smaller and fit tightly, unlike regular shoes. They are designed to grip small holds and provide stability. I use the same pair of shoes for both Bouldering and Lead climbing, relying on their versatility.
ー Do you consider the role of rubber in climbing shoes?
noguchi: I use the original soles provided by La Sportiva, which are typically Vibram soles. I've never felt the need to change them because they offer excellent grip and performance. Vibram soles are reliable, and I trust their quality.
