Vibram soles are standard for mountain shoes. They are indispensable and unparalleled.

Setsumasa Kobayashi has always supported the unique fusion of street and mode in Japanese fashion from the perspective of shoe design, constantly taking innovative approaches. Let's start by hearing about Kobayashi's relationship with Vibram.

ー How did you find using Vibram as a material when designing shoes?
Kobayashi: In the 1980s, Vibram was expensive and mainly used by mountain climbing professionals. Fashion shoe designers often had to use cheaper, imitation soles due to cost and distribution constraints. By the 1990s, Vibram's prices became more accessible, and its yellow logo became well-known in Japan. This made it easier to use genuine Vibram soles, which customers trusted more.

ー Was Vibram considered the standard and the best outsole?
Kobayashi: Yes, Vibram had no real competitors and succeeded in standardizing the part of the shoe that contacts the ground. This unique position made it the go-to choice for high-quality soles.

ー Is Vibram easy to use in shoe design?
Kobayashi: The ease of use is less about convenience and more about the established standard. Mountain shoes worldwide use Swiss leather called "Galser" and the Norwegian construction method, with Vibram soles being the standard. This consistency in materials and construction methods across countries highlights the borderless nature of high-altitude shoes.

ー What did you find interesting about this standardization?
Kobayashi: The realization that high-altitude shoes are borderless and standardized globally was fascinating. The story of shoe-making was already established, making the design process intriguing.

ー How have soles evolved over time?
Kobayashi: When I started, sneakers were emerging as fashion items. The transition from cutting flat materials to heat-molding midsoles marked a significant change. Vibram's integration of outsoles with midsoles became more prevalent.

ー How did Mountain Research begin?
Kobayashi: Mountain Research started with the idea of exploring the lifestyle of people living at the foot of mountains. It wasn't about high-altitude mountaineering but rather the everyday life of mountain dwellers. This approach led to using Swiss leather and Vibram soles to create authentic tools.

ー What is your view on Vibram's impact on fashion?
Kobayashi: Vibram's presence in fashion is unparalleled. It has successfully integrated professional-grade functionality with fashion, making it a unique and influential brand.

Since 2006, Setsumasa Kobayashi has been leading RESEARCH, which develops various research projects (or project-based research) including Mountain Research. After working as a freelance shoe designer, he launched his first apparel brand, GENERAL RESEARCH, in 1994. Subsequently, he transitioned to a project-based collection format under the umbrella of "RESEARCH" with multiple brand names corresponding to the themes he delves into. Notable projects include Mountain Research, focused on mountain living, and Riding Equipment Research, focused on custom bikes.

When introducing shoes, the lineup always includes Vibram. There is a sense of security in always coming back to them.

Kobayashi always mentions that the lineup includes high-spec mountain shoes and shoes for different environments within the same mountain. All the shoe soles (contact surfaces) are standard Vibram. We asked for an explanation.

— What kind of shoes are you showing us today? We understand they are genuine, but it's an unknown world to us.
Kobayashi: The second shoe from the right is the first pair made for Mountain Research by a Japanese manufacturer called "Piton". It's a handmade mountaineering boot using Swiss Galser leather and Vibram's "Montagna" sole. The fourth shoe from the right is from "SCHUH BERTL" in Munich, designed for everyday wear by mountain dwellers. It uses the same thick Galser leather and Norwegian construction method, providing excellent protection.

— How has the evolution of materials impacted shoe design?
Kobayashi: New materials like EVA and heat-molded midsoles have made shoe design more flexible and enjoyable. While traditional mountaineering boots were durable and long-lasting, modern designs prioritize comfort and aesthetics, even if they have a shorter lifespan.

— How do modern mountaineering boots compare to traditional ones?
Kobayashi: Traditional boots were over-engineered to handle heavy loads and rough terrain. Modern boots are lighter and more comfortable, reflecting changes in materials and design preferences.

— What is your view on Vibram's role in shoe design?
Kobayashi: Vibram has successfully standardized the part of the shoe that contacts the ground, making it a trusted choice for both professional and fashion-oriented designs. The brand's ability to meet functional requirements while appealing to fashion is impressive.

— Do you have any memorable experiences with Vibram?
Kobayashi: Vibram's soles have evolved to include both deep and shallow lugs, making them suitable for various applications. This versatility allows for both professional-grade and fashion-oriented designs.

— How do you view the importance of Vibram soles in outdoor activities?
Kobayashi: Vibram soles provide reliability and confidence in outdoor activities. The yellow logo signifies quality and trust, making it an essential choice for outdoor footwear.

— What is your impression of Vibram's impact on footwear?
Kobayashi: Vibram's soles have revolutionized footwear, providing durability and performance that were previously unattainable with traditional materials.

After the interview, I looked up at the ceiling and saw it filled with many backpacks.